My Go-To DIY Nightgown After 18+ Makes... and How You Can Make It Too!

My Go-To DIY Nightgown After 18+ Makes... and How You Can Make It Too!

I posted about this nightgown mashup years ago after having only made two of them but the post itself was a last minute tacked on add-on to a time-limited themed post and it all felt a bit rushed. Since then I've gone on to make so many more of these nightgowns and my girls absolutely adore them while I love how simple they are to make. This nightgown is our most used pattern hands down and as such I knew there needed to be an updated post... but over time it felt bigger and bigger and I kept putting off. Although the pattern company is no more and Joanns just closed I knew I needed to share it still... and finally here it is!

Pinterest geared image showing my post title, images from below, and my main URL.

Backstory

This nightgown came about back in early 2019 when I took part in the Rebecca Page Double Duty Blog Tour (link no longer works) that I posted about with Sleepy Gowns - Patsy Party Dress Hacked or Mashed. All the bloggers that took part in the tour needed to take a Rebecca Page pattern they'd sewn up already but they had to make sure to add a twist to make it unique. At this time I had recently sewn up her Patsy Party dress and while making it thought how much easier the back would be in knit. As such for my entry I decided to try it. I had cheap snuggle flannel on hand so I switched the dress to a nightgown so it would cost less to execute and any mistakes in execution wouldn't matter as much. The directions for this one are at the top of the post though, word of warning, I only made it the one time so no later on updates are available. That said the dress was adorable.

Sleepy Gowns - Patsy Party Dress Hacked or Mashed
I hacked the free Patsy Party dress to make a simple nightgown. I couldn’t stop there and had to see what the Patsy skirt would look like mashed with the Olivia top. Love how both turned out.

As I made that nightgown I thought of the Rebecca Page Olivia shirt and realized that mashing it together with the skirt part of the Patsy dress would be adorable and easier than what I was currently making. With that this nightgown was born and this, not the first version, became my favorite as it's quicker and way less fussy to make. In fact while compiling my 2023 sewing recap post I realized I'd made this at least fifteen times now and counting! Then, while putting this post off, I made it three more for Christmas in 2024 and if the kids request it again I'll for sure make more!

My Sews in 2023: Infrequent but There When I Wanted It
Over the last several years I’ve posted a sewing roundup. This year is no different so here are the more infrequent but still loved projects I’ve sewn in 2023.
My Sews in 2024: Still Infrequent
I wanted to continue posting my sewing roundup although, again, in 2024 there wasn’t much. Here they are!

Plus I have both patterns for kids and ladies so regardless if they keep asking I will keep making.

What You Need

Pattern

This nightgown uses the six panel skirt from the Rebecca Page Patsy Party dress and the shortened pattern pieces from the Rebecca Page Olivia shirt.

Collage showing the Olivia top (left), Patsy dress (center-ish), and three line drawings

I loved Rebecca Page's patterns and was part of her brand ambassador program until I realized I didn't have enough time to devote to it anymore. Her patterns taught me tons about sewing. That said, while compiling and writing this, I realized her brand is no more. While researching it I found Craft Industry Alliance's post: Rebecca Page Rebrands, Then Quietly Shuts Down. Additionally, I haven't joined but found this private Facebook group Rebecca Page? You.Make.? What Page?. Other than stumbling across these after the fact I know nothing about what went down. That said, her patterns still seem to live on under another name on the Etsy page YouMakePatterns if you really need them. That said, you don't need her specific patterns to make this. All you need are two general patterns: a peasant top and a six-paneled (maybe any-paneled?) skirt.

Pattern Alternatives

I use a peasant top with elastic in the neckline and have since stopped adding elastic to the sleeves. I also crop it to be shorter so the horizontal line joining the top and skirt isn't as low. I'm assuming any raglan may work but not sure. If you try please comment below!

The Olivia Top
I found a great pattern that works with quilting cotton all the way to light-weight knits! Truly a costume shirt depending on the kids’ favorite characters!

Here's the peasant top I used. Normally I crop it to hang higher but last time Ada wanted a to the floor nightgown so I kept the skirt the same and cropped less from the bodice. Personally I don't like how low the joining seam is but she adores it.

For the skirt I use a six paneled pattern but I'd imagine any flared or tiered skirt pattern should also work. Again if you try it please comment below!

The Patsy Party Dress
The Patsy Party dress was a fun sew that creates an epic party dress with clean hidden seams. This was an incredibly fun dress to sew up.

I use a six-paneled woven skirt pattern (ignoring anything related to the bodice) though maybe any circle skirt would do?

If you have a good alternative to either pattern you want to share feel free to post a link in the comments or email me and I can add an update.

Fabric

Each time I make this I use the Super Snuggle Flannel from Joann's but first make sure it's on sale for $2.99 a yard before having the kids choose whichever design they want. That said, the last few times shipping took awhile and I had some of my non-fabric add-ons randomly cancelled with no warning. Plus, I really need to get this live as I've recently heard that Joann's has filed for bankruptcy... again.... and then I put this off and they're now closed so if you know where to find something similar for cheap please please share in the comments below or email me so you and I can keep making this!

Images show the search text at the top, filtering criteria on the left, and results on the right.
Screenshot of my current results when searching for the Super Snuggle Flannel at Joann's was taken on January 21st, 2024.

Other Items Needed

I print out my pdf pattern and then used scissors and either, based on what I can find, scotch tape or masking tape to tape the pieces together. To cut the fabric I use pattern weights, two cutting mats placed side by side, and a rotary cutter.

Pattern Weights
Have you been sewing and need pattern weights to help cut out your patterns? Do you want to make a decorative paper weight or something similar? Here are the pattern weights I by buying some washings, using some embroidery floss, and some fabric scraps. Why not check them out?

If you're looking for pattern weights I've shared some of mine before.

When sewing the nightgowns I use copious amounts of sewing clips as I normally try to make two to four dresses at a time and I like streamlining the clipping and sewing in batches as big as possible. In addition you need fabrics scissors (though I've also used pinking shears) for the optional French seams and elastic for the neckline and maybe for the sleeves. I like having a smaller pair of scissors at the sewing machine along with, potentially, a seam ripper.

Image shows the tools I use once the fabric is cut and ready. All mentioned above except for the quilting ruler used to measure the elastic.
The elastic and tools all laid out and ready to go!

TLDR: Quick Directions if You Own the Patterns

If you own the patterns here's a quick overview of my process.

  1. Olivia: Step 1 - Top Side Seams
  2. Olivia: Step 2 - Sleeve Side Seams
  3. Patsy: Step 2 - Skirt - Here I combine several steps before sewing. Patsy is a six panel skirt and in the directions you do one side panel, the other panel, repeat for the other half, and then join. Instead I:
    1. Clip the front side panels to the front piece
    2. Clip the back side panels to the back piece
    3. Sew all four seams using French seams.
    4. Clip the front and back sections together on both sides
    5. Sew them together making the skirt.
  4. Olivia: Step 3 - Hem the Sleeves
  5. Olivia: Step 4 - Attach the Sleeves
  6. Olivia: Step 5 - Finish the Neckline
  7. Olivia: Step 6 - Neckline Elastic
  8. Olivia: Step 9 - Sleeve Elastic (optional) - I hem
  9. Patsy: Step 8 - Hem - The pattern has you measure, flip, and sew. I streamline the exactitude and instead do a rolled hem on my serger going around twice to cover any spots that weren't fully rolled.
  10. Patsy: Step 4 - Attaching Main Bodice to Skirt - Follow directions replacing main bodice with the Olivia top. Ensure to clip and quarter so there's no uneven bunching.

Skipped

I'm lazy in my sewing so chose to skip all the optional steps like stay stitching the skirt, skirt overlay, and trimming the shirt. Since the top is sewn to the skirt you can also skip hemming the shirt and all bodice steps including the straps, back elastic, and bodice lining (steps 1, 5, 6, and 7).

Preparing and Planning

Preparing Pattern Pieces

I'm assuming this would be the same regardless what pattern you're using.... so:

Patsy: The skirt part essentially stays the same BUT I ignored the bodice when cutting the skirt pieces out. If using a skirt pattern I'd imagine you simply ignore anything waistband related.

Olivia: I use all the same pattern pieces but make sure to shorten the front and back bodice pieces. Over the years I moved the line down for a longer dress and bodice per the kids' request (personally I prefer the look of shorter) but as long as you make sure you leave enough room under the sleeves for the sleeve and skirt attachment seam allowance you're golden.

Quick Note: Depending on the bodice length this can make it easy to confuse the pieces with the short sleeve pieces. Please mark if worried.

Image shows the marked pattern on the left and cut on the right.
I normally sketched the line before cutting as you could always line up the pattern pieces and eyeball it before cutting the paper.
After measuring from the bottom and marking I use a French ruler to check the curve and draw a line.
Now I mark from the bottom of the piece then use the French ruler to draw the line....
Here you can see the marks and line so I can easily cut the pattern without second guessing it.
So it looks like this.
The old crinkled pattern has been tapped up (near the top) and cut again lower down. The bottom tape shows where I tapped the original paper pattern together.
And if you're reusing the same pattern piece from last time you can always tape it back together and mark a new line. I've done this when the kids want longer dresses but were still sized into the prior size. Easier to update this piece and not re-print everything.

Quick Note: The sleeves themselves can be anything. The Olivia pattern called for regular or elasticized long or short sleeves which I normally made short and elasticized but the sleeves became too tight when the kids grew and I frequently found myself cutting the elastic off. Now I just do a rolled hem with my serger from the beginning as it's less steps overall and preferred.

Quick Note: Going Forward

Once you figured out what size you need I recommend the first time maybe sewing up a muslin with cheaper but similar fabric. This could also just be a muslin of the shirt pattern to size then go with the same size of skirt... or you could muslin the entire thing.... or just jump in and hope for the best... that's what I commonly did.

At the beginning I followed the directions then over time I simplified everything by cutting out what I didn't need and, other than the elastic, sewing every step with just the serger. I found over time many of the seams unraveled and I had to spend time fixing random holes. I've since added more steps by only using my sewing machine (other than the rolled hem) with French seams so now, if a seam starts opening, there's another seam holding it closed and it gives me more time to fix it.

Cutting Fabric

Once you know the plan it's time to cut out the fabric. I find this step, for me, is the most time consuming and put-off-able. The space needs to cleaned off and the feeling of needing to cut all the dresses I'm batching bugs me. That said, it's not too difficult. Just make sure to pay attention with directional fabric and mark any place that would make life easier for you later on like the front and back panels.

Quick Photo Notes

Image shows the roll of elastic with several cut off near the top and one laid out against the quilting ruler showing 21 inches long.
I normally try to speed up the process by cutting my elastic while cutting my fabric and find my quilting ruler makes it easy to size it quick.
Two skirt pieces overlapped together with one marked with an F and the other with an O (simpler to write than a B).
I like marking the front (F) and back (O is easier than a B) center panel piece for the skirt and then don't have to second guess it later on. The four side panels already have marks I put so you know how to join them up and thus it's mainly the front and back I'm normally concerned about.

Follow Along as I Make It

Along with sewing several dresses at once I also like to batch the steps together to minimize having to switch between sewing and clipping the fabric together. As such, I start making the bodice and skirt at the same time clipping as much as I can before switching to the sewing machine to sew it up.

That said, the pattern is essentially making the top, make the skirt, (optionally) hem the sleeves now as easier without the skirt, add neckline, attach together, and hem the skirt. Also I use a French seam so the photos show the wrong sides facing at first but after sewing I flip them wrong sides out, finger press the fold, clip in place, and sew them all hiding the first seam.

Easily Unravel and Tie off Your Serger Ends
Have you just gotten a serger? Are you looking for a simple way to stop your serger tails from unraveling? Why not do it this way!

Other than the rolled hem I've more recently switched to a sewing machine with a French seam... that said I used to use the serger and if you want to know now I tie off the ends so they don't unravel check this post out!

Easily Identify Clothing With Fabric Markers Or By Your Fabric Choice
Do you have trouble identifying your children’s clothing? Why not change them whether it’s slightly or drastically! Here’s what I’ve been doing over the last several years.

When making matching outfits for my girls they sometimes were hard to tell apart unless I could hold both outfits up together... as such I started marking them to tell them apart more easily.

First Batch: Skirt and Bodice Pieces

Stack of clipped sleeves and bodices on the left and skirts on the right.
There's a lot of clipping at the beginning as I close the sleeves, attach both sides of the bodice together, and attach the side panels to the center front and back panels.
All sewn one after another and attached to make a colorful and random banner.
Since I sew them all back to back I end up with a weirdly shaped banner if I lift it up.
Image shows the skirt unfolded with three panels connected.
Once done I go through with my scissors separating each piece from each other and confirming that the seams look okay.
Images shown pinking shears with the cut off seam above.
This time I grabbed my pinking shears to trim each seam being careful to not trim too much but instead just enough to hide the seam fully but not to clip the original seam. That said it was vaguely visible so I later switched back to my fabric scissors.
Three stages of the seam is shown on the little sleeve edge. Center is trimmed while the outer two are flipped with the right finger pressed and clipped more.
With the seam trimmed I flip each piece inside out so their right sides are facing, finger press them flat, and use sewing clips to keep them in place.
Image shows the right sides together, trimmed, and clipped bodice and skirts. Trimmed pieces are to the left and clipped to the right.
With that they're prepped and ready... next to a pile of clipped excess trimmings.
Previous pieces now sewn and ready for the next batch process.
I then sew along each prepped side fully enclosing that first seam within this new second one.

Sleeve Hemming

With this first batch of sewing done we could technically hem the sleeves now. At first I saved this for later, as the directions said, and combined it with the neckline but now both with my planned rolled hem and knowing that hemming after the skirt is attached it too bulky I decide to get it done now.

Closeup of a stack of sleeves all with while rolled edging.
I try to choose a thread color that matches all the dresses so I don't have to keep changing the thread between dresses. As such I went with white but could see a multicolor thread popping here.

Second Batch: Skirt and Bodice Reveal

With the sleeves made and bodice tubelike it's now time to attach them together. At the same time I attach the front and back skirt halves into one too. After these are clipped, sewn, trimmed, flipped, clipped, and sewn again we have one bodice and one skirt per each nightgown... with their top and bottom raw edge unfinished.

Set of sleeves showing the sewn edge (center), pinking shear trimmed curves (right), and flipped/clipped edge (left).
The sleeves can also be done with a French seam. Here I put them wrong sides together, sew (center heart), clip, (right tie dye), flip, and clip again (left most).
All right sides inward and clipped. Ready for second seam.
I love how it looks when you have a piled of clipped curved seams ready to go.

Pause For Top Neckline

At this point we return to the shirt's instructions to finish the bodice's raw neckline (top edge). Since this is an elasticized peasant top I need to measure from the top, flip the top down, and clip the fabric in place before carefully sewing along the edge making a channel for the elastic. I make sure, while doing this, to leave an opening so once this is made I can thread the pre-measured elastic in, making sure to leave the end sticking out, and thread it all the way through. I then clip the elastic ends together, join with a zigzag stitch, tug to tuck it back in the channel, and sew the channel closed making sure to not sew over the elastic. This is the part I hate the most, although easy, and I love that I only do it for the neck now and not for the smaller sleeves too.

Quilting ruler is placed next to seam marking distance from the raw top. Chalk roller pen is next waiting to mark where the folds should end for a channel.
I mark, according to the directions, the entire way around the shirt's neckline before flipping the fabric down to make a channel.
Elastic har been threaded in but end clipped in place beside the opening causing a loop of elastic.
When threading the elastic through I make sure to clip the end so I don't lose it...
Image shows wire threaded elastic looking a bit sad sticking out of the hole next to the nice looking clipped end.
... and then the elastic is waiting once I get back. Here I couldn't find a safety pin so made due with thick wire.
Image shows the neckline cinched in, the ends clipped together with three clips, and the openings marked.
Once threaded I clip the elastic ends together, clip the main opening to make it obvious, zigzag stitched the elastic together, pull to tug it in, and sew up any openings. Here there were two marked hole to sew closed.
Image shows the state of multiline necklines from clipped channel on left to fully finished and cinched on right.
Here's the left photo shows the neckline clipped and the elastic ready and waiting above it. The blue snowflake has it threaded and clipped, while the black has the elastic sewn but the openings open, and the tie-dyed one is done with the elastic cinched equally around.

Quick Image Note: Lost Safety Pin

Image shows a seam ripped seam with sewing clip marking the space and seam ripper to the side.
If you lose the safety pin in the channel (here the elastic slipped off the safety pin) I find the spot, mark it with a clip, and seam rip that immediate space open.
Seam ripper is done so the lid is back on and the safety pin has been put back through the elastic a bit further in.
Once freed I rethread the elastic onto the safety pin and thread it back in to continue on its way. Here I probably removed the clip to pry out the pin but...
Loop of elastic is sticking out of the hole with two clips next to it out of the way but marking the hole.
I always make sure to make it obvious where the hole is (here I used a double clip) so I can fix it later when I sew shut the main hole without wasting too much time scanning the entire neckline.

Connect Bodice and Skirt

I leave hemming the skirt for last so the next step is connecting the bodice with the skirt. That said you could reorder it if you want to hem first. Either way depending where you crop the bodice and your outfit size the skirt diameter won't fit the bodice bottom. As such I find the four quarter points to both:

  • Bodice: the bodice has the sides marked already with the seam but I fold the bodice along the front and back, matching the side seams, to find the center front and back. I mark these points with clips.
  • Skirt: here I fold the front and back panels in half to find their center, mark with clips, then hold them together to find and mark the side seams.

With these four center points known I can now put the bodice inside the skirt (wrong sides together because French seams) and clip them together at these quartered points. I then find the center point between each set of clips, match them up, and clip in place. I continue around halving each space, matching, clipping, and repeating until the whole thing is done and all excess is matched in manageable sections. Then I sew it closed, trim the seam allowance, flip the other way, clip, and sew again.

The bodice bottom and skirt top are wrong sides together and clipped the entire way around.
After finding the four main points I clip them then go through each section finding the center, clipping, and repeating until it's all clipped together.

Quick Note: I find the feed dogs help push the fabric through so if one side (skirt or bodice) has more fabric than the other I make sure that side is facing down so the sewing machine's feed dogs can do the work of gathering the fabric while I sew.

Image shows a closeup between two clips with one having excess length.
Some sections have excess fabric as one part is larger than another. With this halving and clipping process hopefully it's divided up and not too much in only one spot. Plus use the feed dogs to help gather it up.

Skirt Hemming

This step feels long but it's also fun and I leave it for last. Technically I could measure where I want the hem when the kids are wearing the dress and the pattern actually has you measure, fold, and hem properly but I got lazy and these started as a gift that had to be hidden. As such, over time, I simply hemmed it and started doing a rolled hem first on my sewing machine but had troubles if there were weird mismatches at the skirt seams and then later discovered I can do a rolled hem on my serger which trims any mismatches for me as we go and it's awesome!

Quick Note: I sometimes miss a spot here and there where the rolled hem isn't exact so I started serging around the skirt twice to cover up these small spots. There's the real possibility of losing your starting spot so, to eliminate infinite hemming, when I finish my first go around I clip that spot so I can find it easily on the next circuit around.

One skirt being rolled hemmed on my serger while two others (one done and one raw edged) sit beside.
As you can see here the one in the serger is being hemmed on the second go around, the blue is done, and the pink dress is waiting for it's turn.
The fully serged edge after one time with excess thread.
Here's a closeup of the seam showing a section missed the second time around so you can see the difference between once and twice. The serger's loose ends, in roll hem, seems impossible to untangle so I simply trim the excess and haven't noticed a problem with it unraveling yet.

All Done!

These dresses have become a known and requested Christmas present either through fabric I have on hand or that we bought before Halloween.

Image shows one cinched gift bag with orange showing, one open bag with snowflaked dress, and a froot loops holding unicorn to the side.
This time around I had bought the kids large snack themed squish mallows so I wrapped them together with the toy in my homemade fabric bags causing big and squishy presents.

Quick Note: Alternative Options

Just in case you prefer other methods when making these I wanted to highlight two images from the first post:

Bodice and skirt clipped together and back panel of skirt gathered to match the remaining Olivia's width.
Rather than quartering the fabric the first time around I gathered the back with basting stitches and used that to match the fabric up. I prefer quartering as it's quicker but this may offer you more custom look.
Topstitching right over the seam making sure to go over the seam allowance and flatten the stitch down.
I also topstitched the fabric down where the skirt and bodice seam matched... looking back I could see bringing that back... but at the same time the French seam is smooth on the underside too.
Sleepy Gowns - Patsy Party Dress Hacked or Mashed
I hacked the free Patsy Party dress to make a simple nightgown. I couldn’t stop there and had to see what the Patsy skirt would look like mashed with the Olivia top. Love how both turned out.

To better compare and see more photos this nightgown is halfway down in this post.

Customizations - Fabric Markers

In week 28 of the 2020 52 week sewing challenge the kids had the opportunity to color the front panel of the dress to make their own nightgown. I found the fabric too thin and see through so I ended up cutting two layers and sewing it as if they were one. I also had them shop my stash and they chose what each skirt panel, sleeve, and back bodice piece should be. Quote from the previous post in 2020:

For these I allowed Ada to use the lightbox I had recently bought so she could trace the Wonder Woman logo which lead to Zoey tracing out a flower on her dress. After tracing Ada then copied her DUPLO® creations making it a Wonder Woman DUPLO® dress while Zoey finished hers off more quickly.

Quick Note: Over the years of including the kids in sewing designs I tried to enforce seam allowance awareness. If they draw close to the edge it will be hidden and/or cut off.

Zoey tracing a printed flower coloring Sheed onto fabric using a Lightbox.
Lightbox tracing and then coloring freedom.
Ada holding up a designed fabric panel to her chest.
Ada's final drawing after ironing it to set the colors and before sewing it up.
Image shows two dresses laid out on the floor inside out showing the seams.
This was back when I folded the hem down and added elastic to the sleeves. You can see the thicker front layer and the inside seams better here.
Creating Your Own Woven Panels With Fabric Markers
When you can’t find what you want in store why not create it yourself? I used coloring pages to sketch out LEGO® images on white woven fabric and later colored them in. The perfect custom fabric to use with your sewing patterns.

After taking in requests from the kids I also once traced and colored front bodice and straps for the Patsy gown (dress this skirt was taken from) in case you're wanting something similar but different.

Quick Note: If your kids may work on it for a while and dog ear the edges I could see tracing the pattern piece out (so they know the where the edges are) and not cutting it out completely until after it's done.

Fabric marker, a felt design, and coloring the marked fabric pieces.
Here's a quick example from their dinosaur pillow design where I cut out each section of accessories and let them color it before cutting the pieces out and sewing them. There's more examples of different pieces in that post.

Final Dresses

And without further ado here are many of the dresses with different hems (folded and stitched versus rolled) and different sleeves (cinched with elastic versus rolled hem) over the years.

Single Dress: Flat Lay

Image shows a flat lay of the front of the dress.
Image shows a flat lay of the spread out circle skirt. The bodice is mostly hidden in the fabric pattern.
Image shows a flat lay of the front of the dress with the side tucked in to fit in the photo.

Multi Dresses: Flat Lay

Image shows a flat lay of the front of two dresses highlighting the size difference at that time.
Image shows a flat lay of the front of two dresses with the back one opened up to see the circle skirt aspect.
Image shows a flat lay of the front of two dresses with the back one opened up to see the circle skirt aspect.
Image shows a flat lay of the front of four dresses with mostly the bodices captured in the image.

Kid Worn and Action Shots

Image shows the dress being worn while seated on the floor with the skirt circled out.
Image shows spinning!
Image shows spinning!
Image shows the dress in place with the side lifted up.
Spinning with a coat and scarf on over top in the snow.

Have you ever mashed up two patterns together?

Also as this is my most repeated pattern over the years I found I simplified my process by skipping steps but also realized switching to French seams, although longer to do, lasts longer and saves more time. What’s your go-to sewing shortcut? And have you cut corners and regretted it like I did?

Have you tried this nightgown before? Or will you? I'd love to know, see how it turned out, and would love to know how you customize it! Tag me on Instagram, post in the comments, or even email me if you prefer! I'd absolutely love to see your version!

Hope you’re having a great day!


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