Simplify Sewing Bands Onto Clothing - Sew It Flat!

Simplify Sewing Bands Onto Clothing - Sew It Flat!

A while back I read about a quick hack on Facebook that helps you more easily sew the leg bands of toddler’s underwear. I’ve since gone on to try this method on multiple garments. I’ve even chosen to use this method on the neckband of a wearable muslin I sewed up for myself and then went on to both hem the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt using this method too. Since then I’ve decided It can be harder to line up both the edge of the band and the seam when using this quick hack so decided to limit it to toddler arm (band or hem) and leg (band) holes since they’re so small and difficult to sew once the side seam is sewn in. This method was especially helpful when hemming the tiny sleeves and adding the leg bands on my daughters’ rash guards and swimming bottoms. I’ve since continued to use this method when attaching arm or leg bands to daughters’ tops, underwear, or swim bottoms.

Learn a quick sewing hack! Do you hate sewing on neckbands, leg bands, or arm bands? Is it really hard to hem your kids' sleeves with your sewing machine? Learn a simple hack where you hem or attach the band BEFORE closing the last seam. So simple!

Materials

Use whatever your pattern requires for you to sew it up. This method just requires a different ordering of your pattern’s step. I’ve used it when adding bands or hemming. Also I sew my knit garments on my sewing machine using a simple zig zag stitch so you don’t even require a serger though I assume you could do the same with one too.

In this example I was sewing two Magnolia dresses for my daughters from Stitch Upon a Time. I’d previously sewn up this pattern for my Me-Made-May sew and have since sewn up a third version for both Ada and Zoey making this my most frequently used pattern with a total of six dresses made. The fabric used each time came from Whimsy Custom Fabrics.


When Sewing The Neckband According To The Directions

When following up this and other patterns the bands are normally sewn onto an already completed neck or arm hole. For instance with the neckline you sew up the shoulders of the bodice first so you have a completed circle for the neck. After that you take your neckband, sew the ends so you have a closed loop, fold it in half lengthwise so the wrong sides are together, clip or pin the band to your neckline, and then sew it on. This requires halving and quartering both the band and the neckline of the outfit before stretching the band on. This can be especially difficult for the smaller sizes as you’re trying to stretch your band to fit while also keeping the bodice unstretched. Pressing the finished neckline helps but if you’re willing to have neckband’s seam even with one of the shoulder seams you can easily use this method so the neckband is sewn on while the garment is flat and then you sew the neckline closed. This also makes it easier to press since you can do it before the neckband is fully enclosed and still flat.

The regular way to make bands has you sew you band on the short ends to close it, put wrong side together lengthwise, mark it at four positions, mark your shirt neckline at four place, pin, stretch, and sew.
The regular way to make bands has you sew you band on the short ends to close it, put wrong side together lengthwise, mark it at four positions, mark your shirt neckline at four place, pin, stretch, and sew.
This way it's tough to stretch out the fabric in front of you while still having enough trailing behind to tug on.
This way it’s tough to stretch out the fabric in front of you while still having enough trailing behind to tug on.
Finished neckband.
Finished neckband.
Once you're done depending on the size of the shirt it may be complicated to press flat... so I often skip it.
Once you’re done depending on the size of the shirt it may be complicated to press flat… so I sometimes skip it.

Quick Hack To Simplify The Process

After having tried this hack on neckbands, armbands, leg bands, and the hem of both sleeves and the main bodice I’ve since gone on to mostly restricting this hack to smaller garments. For these dresses I sewed the neckbands on according to the pattern’s directions as I wanted more practice with the ‘proper’ way. After sewing the neckband on I continued by attaching the armbands using this hack so they were simpler to do and looked nicer. If you were to do the neckband sew the one shoulder seam together, sew on the neckband according to this method, press, and then close up the neckband by sewing the other shoulder seam closed. As the band’s seam is sewn by closing the garment’s seam the neckband’s seam would now be lined up with the last shoulder seam sewn. Because of this the armholes cause less of a change as I normally lined the armband’s seam with the side seam beforehand. The only difference is this time the armband’s seam isn’t hidden within the band and is instead on the inside of the sleeve.

For changing the method of sewing up the armbands with the Magnolia pattern you’d have to do the armband after sewing the shoulder seams together of the Magnolia shirt or dress and before sewing up the side seams of the garment or sewing the armband itself. Start by laying out the dress/shirt so it’s flat with the right side up. Take your armband and fold it lengthwise with the wrong sides together. You don’t have to worry about sewing the two short ends together as that will be done when you sew the side seam of the garment. If your pattern’s directions have you sew the armband closed with a larger seam allowance than the garment’s side seam then you may want to trim the band first. The Magnolia has the same seam allowance for both so it doesn’t make a difference which order you sew it in according to the final seam allowance.

Take your shirt with shoulder sewn together and lay right side up.
Take your shirt with shoulder sewn together and lay right side up.
Fold your band in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together.
Fold your band in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together.

With this method I don’t mark the half or quarter sections of the armband. Instead I lay the band over the armhole, right sides together, and clip the band at either end. I then stretch out the band so it’s raw edges line up with the garment’s raw edge and clip it in place. You can add as many clips or pins as you need to feel confident. Remember you’re sewing this on a flat garment so it’s easier than the previous method.

Pin or clip it at either end of the armhole.
Pin or clip it at either end of the armhole.
Stretch the fabric between the two clips so the band is stretched to the same size as the armhole.
Stretch the fabric between the two clips so the band is stretched to the same size as the armhole.
Choose a space where you want to add the clip and line up the layers of fabric so they're all even.
Choose a space where you want to add the clip and line up the layers of fabric so they’re all even.
Then clip them in place. You can repeat how many times you want, but since this is on a flat surface it's easier to line up as you sew.
Then clip them in place. You can repeat how many times you want, but since this is on a flat surface it’s easier to line up as you sew.

Then you sew the band onto your armhole. I find it easiest if the first clip (closest to where I’m going to start sewing) is about a centimeter in on the end and then clipping the final clip (on the other end) at a 90 degree angle so I have something to hold onto while I’m sewing the last bit.

I find it easiest to place the clip a bit away from the end you're starting on (no stretching there) so you can get your needle into the fabric before you need to stretch the band.
I find it easiest to place the clip a bit away from the end you’re starting on (no stretching there) so you can get your needle into the fabric before you need to stretch the band.
It's also easiest to keep the fabric moving by grabbing onto the fabric behind it or holding on to the top and bottom thread and tugging lightly.
It’s also easiest to keep the fabric moving by grabbing onto the fabric behind it or holding on to the top and bottom thread and tugging lightly.
Then while you're sewing you can hold it taunt at the next clip so the layers are lined up and the band is stretched. If the clips or pins are further apart you can stretch it at the clip and then grab a section closer to the sewing machine to keep taunt.
Then while you’re sewing you can hold it taunt at the next clip so the layers are lined up and the band is stretched.
If the space is too large you can easily stretch it, choose a place, and hold it from there.
If the space is too large you can easily stretch it, choose a place, and hold it from there.
At the end I like to put my clip on sideways so I can hold the fabric taunt with my clip for longer.
At the end I like to put my clip on sideways so I can hold the fabric taunt with my clip for longer.
Stop when your sewing machine foot reaches the clip.
Stop when your sewing machine foot reaches the clip.
Then you have a minimal space left to sew so less chance of the fabric going wonky.
Then you have a minimal space left to sew so less chance of the fabric going wonky.

And you’re done sewing your band on. If the fabric shifted so the edge of the band doesn’t quite line up perfectly with the side of the bodice that’s ok. It only matters that the excess space is smaller than the pattern’s seam allowance so it’s hidden later and then your band will end up being just a millimeter or two wider.

The band sewn on. If it doesn't line up perfectly with the edge that okay. All that matters is if that space is less than your garment's seam allowance.
The band sewn on. If it doesn’t line up perfectly with the edge that okay. All that matters is if that space is less than your garment’s seam allowance.

After sewing the other armband on fold both armbands out and press flat. It’s so much easier than when the band was sewn on after the side seam was sewn up.

Top of the finished seam attaching the arm band to the shirt (the small triangle is from extending my front panel to fit the bodice front).
Top of the finished seam attaching the arm band to the shirt (the small triangle is from extending my front panel to fit the bodice front).
And it's really simple to press flat as it's already flat.
And it’s really simple to press as it’s already flat.
Which makes my arm band look nicer than my neckband.
Which makes my arm band look nicer than my neckband.
The one armband from both kids' dresses.
The one side of both kids’ dresses.

And then all that’s left to do is follow your pattern’s directions to finish the shirt or dress. In the case of Stitch Upon a Time’s Magnolia top and dress I then folded the dress right sides together and clipped the side seams before sewing them closed. I find it easiest to clip at the armband’s seam and start sewing from the armband and then down the dress so I’m able to be extra careful lining up the folded edge of the armband and the seam while sewing.

Now that the band is sewn on you can follow your pattern's directions and in this case pin or clip the sides of the dress with right sides together before sewing down the sides.
Now that the band is sewn on you can follow your pattern’s directions and in this case pin or clip the sides of the dress with right sides together before sewing down the sides.
I start at the armband and attempt to line up the cuffs perfectly before sewing in. I then attempt to line up the band seams as I sew over them. This is the tough part.
I start at the armband and attempt to line up the cuffs perfectly before sewing in. I then attempt to line up the band seams as I sew over them. This is the tough part.

You’ll end up with the seam allowance showing at your armband instead of enclosed if you had done it the other way. You can leave it as is or hand/machine sew it down if you’d prefer.

Finished arm on the dress from the inside.
Finished arm on the dress from the inside.

Finished Dresses

Front of the finished dress. You can see the armholes lay flatter than the neckband.
Front of the finished dress. You can see the armholes lay flatter than the neckband.
Loving the seam on this arm...
Loving the seam on this arm…
... though the other three don't line up perfectly. The hazard to this method.
… though the other three don’t line up perfectly. The hazard to this method.
The finished neckbands (sewing closed, marking, and sewing in the round) and armbands (quick hack way).
The finished neckbands (sewing closed, marking, and sewing in the round) and armbands (quick hack way).

This simpler method can work in many places when sewing up your garments. If you decide to use this method for your neckband you start by attaching one of your shoulder seams together before then attaching the neckband following the above steps on your mostly flat bodice. After you then sew the other shoulder seam and thus finishing your neckline. This would cause your neckband’s seam to be on the inside and be placed at your last sewn seam instead of enclosed in your band and centered at the back. You can also use this method when hemming your sleeves or, if you really want to (I did it once), the hem of your shirt. For hemming sleeves it would be the same order of steps as above though you’d be hemming the sleeve instead of attaching the band. This is especially handy on long-sleeved toddler garments where the bottom of the sleeve is so tiny.

This method was particularly handy when I sewed on leg bands on my daughters’ underwear, swimsuit bottoms, and swim diaper cover. For these I used the kid’s Stitch Upon a Time Scrundlewear and followed a similar process as above. Assuming the leg bands and waistband are attached using this method the steps would be:

  1. Sew the liner, front, and back of the underwear together according to the pattern’s directions. Don’t sew the side seams together yet.
  2. Attach the leg bands on either side similar to above. Now you have a flat pair of underwear only missing the waist band and side seams.
  3. Sew one side of the underwear together leaving the other side open.
  4. Attach the waistband to the underwear using this method. The underwear won’t lay completely flat as it’s still connected in the crotch and the first side seam.
  5. Once the waistband is attached you sew up the other side seam.

This method on the underwear will leave the leg band seams on the outer edges (with the side seams) and the waist band seam on the one side seam you sewed last.


I hope this helps you sewing your garments. I’m so glad I came across this hack and wish I could remember who shared it. If you have any questions, anything to add to this method, or any other hacks please share in the comments below, on my Facebook page, or through Instagram. I hope you have a great day and that this also simplifies your life.



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